RE: Quietpact 55LP generator
Accept my apologies for an incorrect assumption on MY part. What is your opinion on the smaller Generacs-- say 6.6kw and down?
And also propane vs other fuels?
RE: Quietpact 55LP generator
"if it is made by Genajunk get your check book out."
Do you have personal experiences with Generac that prompt this negative response? Probably NOT and that is one thing I hate about internet forums -- uninformed opinions are worth diddly. If I did a quck search for 'generators' I would probably surmise Onan is junk because of all the problem threads posted. Reality is that there are proportionally many more Onans than any other kind of genset and that is why there are more threads. Generac has a large market share of the commercial generator market. Their product is definitely not junk.
I do have a propane genset. I have a Generac 6600LP with several thousand hours. It has been reliable, trouble free and easy to perform routine maintenance on. My old DP is from 'back in the day' when you seldom saw a diesel genny. My Generac averages .5 gal/hr fuel use average. It burns clean and quiet; with less wear and tear than a comparable gas or diesel unit; and because of this, I expect it to last for many more hours. When diesel was over $4/gal, I was paying a little over $2 for propane. It uses a vapor line connection so I added an extend a stay and routinely run it off of 40lb aux tanks.
If I upgrade, would I go with a propane genset? Probably not, simply because the newer RVs do not have the larger onboard propane tanks like the 40 gal I have now.
Advice on a special use TT
My brother and I live on site at various construction projects we do across the state of Texas. He is in a 33' Fiver and I am in a 32' DP. Usually, we have full hookups but sometimes we have to dry camp for days or weeks at a time.
Lately, we have been doing to jobs simultaneously. One is the main job and the second one is usually much smaller in scale. Up to this time, one to two people have just stayed in the motel at the second location. We have been discussing lately the advantages of placing a small TT at the second location. While I try to stay up on what is going on with Fivers and motor homes, small bumper pull trailers are an unknown area.
Basically, we need a place to eat and sleep. Since this is a satellite location, we don't need the storage capacity or luxury amenities found in the larger units.
My criteria for selection:
Small--25' or less
Accommodate 2 men at times-- so bunks might be a nice option
Ease of setup
Large holding tanks
Large freshwater tank
Easy to keep clean- hard floors would be great!
Rugged construction-- Some of these job sites can be pretty rough!
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
RE: Your ideas?
I have done the race thing for many years and that is the original use for the trailer. No more. I am looking more for ideas about plumbing the washer/dryer etc
Your ideas?
I have a project that might interest some readers and I definitely need the ideas of the forum members!
Some background: My brother and I operate a successful excavation business here in Texas. A typical project involves construction of a large lake on a larger ranch property. Our current project is typical; a six acre fishing lake on a 17000 acre ranch in East Texas.
This project is going to be about 6 weeks in length. My brother has a 33' Heartland Fiver, I have a 33' Dolphin DP and an employee has a 28' Wilderness Scout. Since we work all over the state, we always live on site. Most clients are happy to install the necessary amenities for us to have full hook-ups. When this project is completed, we will move 150 miles to Central Texas for the next one. Most of our projects are over 200 miles from our homes in Northeast Texas so it is imperative we take everything we need to work away from home for extended periods.
Some of these places are very remote. The current project is 25 miles from the closest grocery store and laundromat and we feel fortunate we are THAT close.
Here is what I have in mind... We have a 28' Pace enclosed car hauler.
Like this one.
http://www.paceamerican.com/media/spec_headers/Shadow.jpg width=640
We need the following improvements on the job site.
Washer and dryer
Full size refrigerator/freezer
Additional storage for clothes and parts.
The trailer has 50 amp service already. I would like to install a washer/dryer, water heater, cabinets, closets, counter tops, sink, fridge and shelving in the nose of the trailer. I would like to do this in about 15' of space. The trailer weighs about 4k lbs with a GVW of 10k lbs.
Your ideas on how best to accomplish this would be appreciated.
Your ideas
Moderators edit: Reduced the picture width to the forum's recommended maximum of 640 pixels. Changed the tags from URL to IMG.
RE: Keeping warm in our motorhome
Just a comment on what Ajones said about the Safety Police and Buddy heaters not supposed to be used in confined spaces. That is very misleading. A Buddy Heater is certified for use in areas where people are. They have a oxygen depletion sensor that shuts them off if the level gets below safe limits. It has a tip over shut off. The instructions with the heaters define how big a area of fresh air opening is required. For a Buddy Heater it is a area equal to a 3" diameter circle. For a Big Buddy heater a 4" circle equivelent. I have both. We crack a roof vent a little and that meets the air requirement.
Heating living space is what they are made for and they do a great job.
Jim
Misleading? I think not. It comes up here all the time. For example:
"If you have a Mr. Buddy heater, read this from their website.
Please note: The Portable Buddy is Certified for Outdoor Use Only In Canada
Are you saying that if I cross the border with one that suddenly it will become unsafe? For all of those who claim that the Buddy heaters are unsafe, please show us a news article where someone has been hurt or killed when using one *properly* indoors. As popular as these heaters are, you'd be hearing reports all the time about people being hurt or killed if they were the least bit dangerous. I'm not saying this because I have one. I don't (and I have no intention of buying one). Its just that some people seem to have an almost phobic bias against them. Again, if these people can back up their concerns with hard evidence, I'm all ears. Whether or not the buddy is certified for indoor use in another country tells me nothing about how safe it is. Now, if it were illegal to use the Buddy indoors in Canada, that would be useful information, but only because people travelling into Canada with one probably wouldn't want to be breaking the law."
Read it here
I use a CO detector and sleep well at night.
RE: Keeping warm in our motorhome
DH and I are volunteering this winter at Hagerman NWR, in northern Texas near the Oklahoma border. It gets pretty cold and windy there in the winter. What can we do to keep our class A motorhome warm and toasty? Our storage areas are not heated. Should we insulate them? What should we do about the floors since they get quite cold in the winter?
I live in the same area you are coming to (south of Sherman,TX) and have full-timed in my Class A the last 2 winters.
You will need supplemental heat. The onboard furnace is noisy and a propane hog. It is great for a quick warmup and as back-up heat for cold nights. I have used a thermostat controlled oil radiator, a forced fan ceramic and one of those Big Buddy propane heaters. If the NWR is supplying electricity I would go that route. If you have an additional 20A circuit on the power pedestal, I would run a heavy gauge extension cord inside the MH to service the ceramic or oil bath heater. The Big Buddy heater provides the most heat IMHO but the Safety Police are gonna beat on you since technically, they are not supposed to be used in confined areas. Closing off the rear of the coach when you are using the space heaters works great to keep things cozy.
Your bays are going to get some heat transfer from the coach. Warm floors, holes for pipes, etc. I supplement that heat on the coldest nights with a 40w bulb in the compartments. Get those trouble lights with the shield around them.
Forget about your water hose connection on the colder nights. It is gonna freeze. Simply drain it and hang it up where it can drain and run off your onboard tank for the duration of the cold snap.
The wind blows in Texas :). Make sure your window and door seals are in good shape. I also found a can of that spray foam insulation works well when you identify the under belly draft locations.
My brother always has trouble right after the first cold snap with mice coming in his fifth wheel looking for a warm spot. Some traps put out after the first cold weather and BEFORE you see any mouse sign work well. I have never had that problem.
I also have 2 40lb aux propane tanks and an Extend a Stay plumbed into the onboard tank. I would not be without it for overwintering in the RV. I use the aux tanks for daily use and swap them out when one is empty. The onboard tank is full and reserved for emergency use.
Hope this helps!
RE: Low End 1993 DP
One thing to watch out for on internet forums are uninformed opinions. I have been full timing in a 1993 32' National Dolphin for 2 years now. It has the 230hp 5.9l and 6 speed Allison.
I actually live in it on remote job sites all over TX with a variety of amenities available -- from FHU to total boondocking. It has been at one commercial campground in the last 2 years. The longest stretch of boondocking was 6 weeks with no hookups.
From my viewpoint---
The older units are simpler and easier to work on. Electronic engine controls are minimal
The seem to be -- IMHO - built sturdier.
I replaced most of the outdated electronics which ws easy enough to do with a reasonable skill level- charger, house batteries, AC units etc.
Parts have NOT been an issue.
I tow with it constantly using a beefed up hitch -- 28' enclosed trailer, 30' deck trailer, welding trailer and a 2004 2500 4x4 Suburban toad.
On a recent (6/2008) round trip from DFW-Biloxi,MS (1200 miles), I averaged 12.9 mpg.
Here is the boondocking location where I spent 6 weeks.
http://www.soilmovers.com/images/gap/IMG_1703_A.JPG
RE: Receiver Hitch recommendation
Ajones42 -
1. Did you go with the classIV, or the XDR?
2. I don't have a welder. Do you think I can simply attach with bolts somehow...or do I tell DW I *need* another tool? :)
Ron,
XDR is the Class V. I do believe you could attach the plug with sheet metal screws or even heavy duty zip ties and be fine. I took a grinder and ground the concave area flat where it was once welded to the OEM round tube. It fit nicely up against the XDR hitch. You will see what I mean once you get the OEM hitch off.
Andy
RE: Receiver Hitch recommendation
I've been following this topic through several threads for a while now. I have a 2002 3/4 YukonXL that can pull about 11K and a Eagle 298BHS that goes about 9K+ with a Equilizer hitch (1K bars).
Although I'm not sure it's necessary, I think I've finally come to the conclusion that I should change out the OEM pinbox. Although since it was -17deg this morning when I got up it can wait a few months:)
A couple of questions:
- Putnam classIV vs XDR, does it matter? Is XDR just wasted overkill?
- Installation, I assume it's reasonable simple and that my spare tire isn't affected.
- Bargava electrical connector, do I have to jury-rig something for this or is there a ready made professional looking option?
Thanks for your help.
Ron
Ron
On my 2004 Suburban it was an easy swap out. I unplugged the OEM pigtail from the plug and then cut the old plug mount off the old hitch. I re-attached it to the Putnam with a couple of tack welds. I did not have to remove the spare to install it.
